Kook To Big Hollow......

Well just finished up this outstanding book. Caught me off guard how much this book makes me miss the beach. Much of my formidable years were spent at the various beaches in So Cal, skateboarding, surfing and just being a kid. We would find these giant beach cliffs and see how far we could jump down them. Good times for sure and didn't cost a dollar. My mom raised me and my brother alone but she always was down for the hour drive to the beach. So this guy Peter through some divine cosmic circumstances decides to learn how to surf at the age of 45. Anyone that has tried to surf knows how insanely difficult it is and to try at this age is crazy. I really liked the way we writes and there was some funny bits in there that really show what the local mentality is like. Locals Only is more then a saying you can get straight FUCKED UP if you mess with the wrong guys on there waves. Yeah Yeah Yeah I know no one owns the wave but you can go ahead and tell them as the are stealing the carb off your car so they can throw it at you out in the water. So if you are into the sound of the waves clapping on the sand or the smell of the morning dew that is heavy with salt then search out this book and don't be a Kook.